Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2023

Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2023Product Information: Pristine fruit from their coldest vintage on record. Lifted aromas of orange blossom and white jasmine are hallmarks of a cooler season. The palate is powerful, layered and textured with grapefruit, lemon pith and minerality. Low yield flavour intensity is balanced with electric acidity. All fruit was hand picked, whole bunch pressed, and fermented in French oak. The wine spent ten months in barrel with gentle stirring as

Product Information:

Pristine fruit from their coldest vintage on record. Lifted aromas of orange blossom and white jasmine are hallmarks of a cooler season. The palate is powerful, layered and textured with grapefruit, lemon pith and minerality. Low yield flavour intensity is balanced with electric acidity. All fruit was hand-picked, whole bunch pressed, and fermented in French oak. The wine spent ten months in barrel with gentle stirring as required, then rested in tank on lees for a further four months. Will repay careful cellaring for up to 12 years. Extremely tight allocations, hesitate and you'll have to wait another year to try your luck then.

Maker: 

Why Tasmania? This is a question Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith MW have been asked frequently since buying the highly rated Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River Valley about 30 minutes from Hobart.

Three obvious factors. One, the long term insurance against climate change. Two, Tasmania’s pristine environment. Three, the excellence of the state’s best wines. Whilst these factors undoubtedly played a part – in the end it was serendipity and good fortune and really compelling wines that helped win the day.

Inspired by the accounts of renowned wine writers - Halliday, Hooke, Stock. Martin and Michael decided to go on a reconnaissance trip, with little to no intention of buying.

Dinner on the first night of their trip was with legend Andrew Pirie and former Hardy’s chief winemaker Peter Dawson. Pirie arrived with laptop in hand complete with climatic maps and data which proved to be enlightening. Cousins Martin and Michael Shaw aren't exactly new to wine, a decorated winemaker and the other Master of Wine, oh and the fact they own a little label called Shaw + Smith. But even didn't know just how cold and dry eastern and southern Tasmania are, principally due to the rain shadow effect of the westerly mountains. This combination of dry and cold conditions produces grapes with outstanding flavour and acidity, but without the same disease threat of wetter climates. The wheels would begin to turn.

After a bottle of Roederer, Bonneau du Martray and number of good Tassie wines, Dawson boldly predicted that “Tasmania would be making Australia’s best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir within the next decade”. Capturing the imagination of our traveling protagonists.

The following day the Shaws visited some wineries en route to Tolpuddle – a vineyard near Richmond established in 1988 by Tony Jordan, Gary Crittenden and Bill Casimaty. The moment they drove through the gate it was love at first sight. 20 hectares of mature Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines planted on a long even slope, with lean soils, forests above and water below and great vineyard exposure. Spectacular.

It took barely two days to find their perfect vineyard, of course one not even on the market! On their return to the mainland Martin made an initial approach via Tony Jordan and much to our delight negotiations commenced and were soon successfully completed.

The plan was to make to single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay under the Tolpuddle Vineyard label – making a small amount of wine in 2012 for release in 2013. And well the rest is history and no doubt, one in the making.

Vineyard:

Their coolest season on record. Slightly unsettled flowering thanks to a wetter than average spring, resulting in mild 'Hen and Chicken', giving a combination of small and normal sized berries, and much lighter bunches than normal. Low yields benefitted from drier conditions for the remainder of the ripening period, ensuring fruit was harvested in pristine condition.

Nose - Orange Blossom, Flint, Toasted Hazelnuts
Smoky charcuterie, struck flint and toasted hazelnuts to sniff. 

Palate - Piercing Lemon Juice, Cream, Minerals
The wine is intense, focused and very long on the palate. Piercing lemon/citrus flavours, fresh and balanced acidity.

Finish - Electric Acidity, Grapefruit, Integrated Oak
Promising a big future if cellared, although it's a great drink right now. 

Bright medium-light yellow colour; smoky charcuterie, struck flint and toasted hazelnuts to sniff. The wine is intense, focused and very long on the palate. Piercing lemon/citrus flavours, fresh and balanced acidity driving it long and promising a big future if cellared, although it's a great drink right now. An outstanding chardonnay. - Huon Hooke, The Real Review, 97 Points.

The Finer Details
Style - White Wine
Varietal - Chardonnay
Country - Australia
Region - Coal River, Tasmania
Vintage - 2023
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 13.5%