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Description
McLeod Disc Dual Performance Sprung Hub 12in X 1-1/16 X 10 SplineFord: 300 63 63 6. 4 L Engine, Ford: Custom 64 72 7 L Engine, Ford: Fairlane 63 69 6. 4 L Engine, Ford: E 100 Econoline 78 78 7. 5 L Engine, Ford: Custom 500 73 73 7 L Engine, Ford: Custom 64 71 6. 4 L Engine, Ford: F 250 73 79 7. 5 L Engine, Ford: E 350 Econoline Club Wagon 77 80 7. 5 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 500 68 73 7 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 500 68 71 6. 4 L Engine, Ford: F 350 73 79 7. 5 L Engine, Ford: F 500 75 77 6. 4 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 63
Ford: 300 63 - 63 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Custom 64 - 72 7 L Engine, Ford: Fairlane 63 - 69 6.4 L Engine, Ford: E-100 Econoline 78 - 78 7.5 L Engine, Ford: Custom 500 73 - 73 7 L Engine, Ford: Custom 64 - 71 6.4 L Engine, Ford: F-250 73 - 79 7.5 L Engine, Ford: E-350 Econoline Club Wagon 77 - 80 7.5 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 500 68 - 73 7 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 500 68 - 71 6.4 L Engine, Ford: F-350 73 - 79 7.5 L Engine, Ford: F-500 75 - 77 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 63 - 67 6.4 L Engine, Ford: GT40 66 - 69 7 L Engine, Ford: F-100 68 - 75 6.4 L Engine, Ford: F-250 68 - 76 6.4 L Engine, Ford: E-250 Econoline Club Wagon 75 - 80 7.5 L Engine, Ford: Ranchero 75 - 77 7.5 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 500 72 - 73 7.5 L Engine, Ford: 300 63 - 63 7 L Engine, Ford: Ranchero 67 - 69 6.4 L Engine, Ford: F-150 75 - 79 7.5 L Engine, Ford: LTD 66 - 73 7 L Engine, Ford: E-250 Econoline 75 - 80 7.5 L Engine, Ford: F-350 68 - 76 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Mustang 67 - 69 6.4 L Engine, Ford: F-150 75 - 76 6.4 L Engine, Ford: P-350 68 - 74 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Ranchero 68 - 71 7 L Engine, Ford: Custom 72 - 72 7.5 L Engine, Ford: 300 63 - 63 6.6 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 63 - 67 7 L Engine, Ford: Fairlane 64 - 69 7 L Engine, Ford: E-350 Econoline 75 - 80 7.5 L Engine, Ford: Galaxie 63 - 63 6.6 L Engine, Ford: M-400 72 - 73 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Torino 68 - 73 7 L Engine, Ford: Falcon 70 - 70 7 L Engine, Ford: Mustang 68 - 71 7 L Engine, Ford: LTD 72 - 73 7.5 L Engine, Ford: Ford 300 63 - 63 6.6 L Engine, Ford: LTD 66 - 71 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Ford 300 63 - 63 7 L Engine, Ford: Custom 500 73 - 73 7.5 L Engine, Ford: Torino 68 - 70 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Ford 300 63 - 63 6.4 L Engine, Ford: Torino 73 - 74 7.5 L Engine, Ford: F-100 73 - 74 7.5 L Engine
- • Ceramic facings.
This Part Fits:
Year Make Model Submodel 1963 Ford 300 Base 1964-1972 Ford Custom Base 1973 Ford Custom 500 Base 1978 Ford E-100 Econoline Base 1978 Ford E-100 Econoline Chateau 1978 Ford E-100 Econoline Custom 1978 Ford E-100 Econoline Northland 1975-1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Base 1975-1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Chateau 1975-1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Custom 1975-1978 Ford E-250 Econoline Northland 1975-1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Base 1975-1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Chateau 1975-1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Custom 1975-1978 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Northland 1975-1980 Ford E-350 Econoline Base 1975-1980 Ford E-350 Econoline Chateau 1975-1980 Ford E-350 Econoline Custom 1975-1978 Ford E-350 Econoline Northland 1977-1980 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Base 1977-1980 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Chateau 1977-1980 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Custom 1977-1978 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Northland 1968-1974 Ford F-100 Base 1975 Ford F-100 Custom 1975 Ford F-100 Northland 1975 Ford F-100 Ranger 1975 Ford F-100 Ranger XLT 1976-1978 Ford F-150 Base 1975-1979 Ford F-150 Custom 1975-1978 Ford F-150 Northland 1975-1979 Ford F-150 Ranger 1978-1979 Ford F-150 Ranger Lariat 1975-1979 Ford F-150 Ranger XLT 1977 Ford F-150 XLT 1968-1974,1976-1978 Ford F-250 Base 1975-1979 Ford F-250 Custom 1975-1978 Ford F-250 Northland 1975-1979 Ford F-250 Ranger 1978-1979 Ford F-250 Ranger Lariat 1975-1979 Ford F-250 Ranger XLT 1977 Ford F-250 XLT 1968-1974,1976-1978 Ford F-350 Base 1975-1979 Ford F-350 Custom 1975-1978 Ford F-350 Northland 1975-1979 Ford F-350 Ranger 1978-1979 Ford F-350 Ranger Lariat 1975-1979 Ford F-350 Ranger XLT 1977 Ford F-350 XLT 1975-1977 Ford F-500 Custom 1963-1969 Ford Fairlane Base 1970 Ford Falcon Base 1963-1967 Ford Galaxie Base 1968-1973 Ford Galaxie 500 Base 1968 Ford GT40 Base 1966-1967,1969 Ford GT40 MK III 1966-1973 Ford LTD Base 1972-1973 Ford M-400 Base 1967-1971 Ford Mustang Base 1968-1974 Ford P-350 Base 1975-1977 Ford Ranchero 500 1967-1971 Ford Ranchero Base 1975-1977 Ford Ranchero GT 1975-1976 Ford Ranchero Squire 1968-1974 Ford Torino Base
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4.3 ★★★★★
Based on 18 reviews
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 4
pretty good banana plugs
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
i bought these over 6 months ago and i just installed them to the front left and right floor standing speakers - sony ssf-7000 i have them for over 10 years hooked up to a yamaha 7.1 AVR.
alot of people have had trouble installing this - one single banana plug comes in 3 parts - the bottom and top (the banana plug tip) can be unscrewed.
what i did was tightened the top first (top being the tip of the banana plug) then unscrew the bottom off completely - make sure you have like 3/4" - 1" (depending on your gauge of wire) of exposed speaker wire that is straight - then thread it through the hole at the bottom up - i then rolled the exposed 3/4 - 1" exposed copper wiring into a ball that is bigger than the hole of the banana plug bottom piece so the wire doesn't fall back through where it came from. then i screwed on the top and middle piece back with the bottom piece - tightening it a bit so i know there's good contact. also make sure the tip is screwed in all the way as well as a double check. what you don't want to do is have the copper wire touch the threaded part of the bottom piece - the wire will cut off from the screwing action.
i plugged it into my sony speakers and it wasn't a real snug fit - a bit too loose to feel secure - it didn't seem to go all the way in - but it fit fairly well in my receiver. my intention was to use these banana plugs with my 2 channel set up but i decided to go pre-constructed mediabridge 12 AWG speaker cable instead - those fit my 2 channel set up on my receiver and elacs really snug and secure.
i tested it and it works fine. i didn't hear any loss of signal or any extraneous noise. none of my (14 awg?) wiring fell through the bottom and it sounds good. so no complaints there.
i bought 5 pairs - but i find that it is an odd number to include a package - even numbered pairs would be better.
anyway they seem constructed well - easy enough to install and they do work.
thanks for reading
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Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2019
★★★★★ 5
High quality and robust
Size: 12 Pairs, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Easily the best plugs I've found at a reasonable price. Solid feeling with good quality and they look good with easy to see red/black labeling. The tips tend to unscrew too easily, but this is a non-issue when they are in use, just something you have to be careful not to lose when assembling. It's a bit tricky to spread the wire out evenly at the exact right length. If screwing the plug together is hard at all, go back and shorten how much wire you bend over the lip.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 16, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Solid banana clips
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Ah yes, I used these solid banana plugs to convert my wires. It’s pretty easy to set up once the wire housing has been stripped and really cleans things up nicely. I haven’t had any discernable hissing, noise problems, or connection issues.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
★★★★★ 3
Get the right wire guage
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1), Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
I rate the banana plugs themselves 4 stars. They are everything I expected and work as advertised. It's the experience of assembly that I rate three stars. The way these work is -- you strip off the outer insullation of your wire and separate the two leads (positive and negative). Then you strip some length of insulation off the end of one of your leads, you unscrew the banana plug so that it separates into its respective base (lower) and contact (upper) halves, you slip the wire up through the base, you flare the copper strands of the wire and fold the individual strands over the very top of the base (about 1/16 of an inch) (taking care not to extend the strands over the threaded barrel of the base), then you screw the upper contact onto the lower base and voila, banana plug / wire assembly. It's not as complicated as it sounds. Go to the Monoprice website and watch their excellent instructional video.
Here's the thing though. While the assembly is not complicated, it is tricky, and if you don't get your proportions right the first or second or third time, you'll have to do it over. Fist of all, if your wire guage is relatively thin, like my 16-guage speaker wire, you'll find that the entire wire, insullation and all, will slip right through the base of the plug without butting up against the bottom of the base. If this is the case, then the wire is left to sort of flop around inside the plug and that has a kind of unfinished, amateur look and feel to it, whereas if the wire butts up against the bottom of the base, it has a solid, one-piece professional look. So, to my mind, there's a sweet-spot for wire guage that works best with this plug -- not too thin and not too thick. And since Monoprice has debunked the thicker-is-better myth (the quality of the copper is the real determinant), then you should feel free to get the wire guage that fits the plug.
Next -- and here's where it gets tricky -- once your copper extends beyond the top of the base, you'll need to limit this extension to about a sixteenth (no greatrer than a fourth) of an inch. Then you very delicately flare out the individual strands, in a 360- degree arc, and fold the strands over the top of the base. This takes a fair degree of manual dexterity, especially if the wire is "floating" inside the base and its travel is not stopped where the insullation meets the base. You'll have to hold the wire and base steady in the fingers of one hand, then flare out the wire strands with either your fingers or a suitable object (the working end of a ball-point pen worked for me) with the other hand. This one-sixteenth measure is important. If you extend wire strands beyond the top and over the threads of the base, you'll find that screwing the contact end onto the base is impossible and you'll need to start over. One or two strands is OK and almost unavoidable. In that case the screwing will catch but if you take a pair of pliers to it you can muscle through. By the way, you can avoid the whole mess by getting the open-screw type, which I'm sure will work just as well without any of the hassle of assembly.
Like anything else, if you do it a few times to make the mistakes and learn the tricks, then it will become second nature, and if you've already done that, then my review might seem overly fussy. In that case feel free to leave comments to help other readers.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2012
★★★★★ 5
Wish they came with instructions...
They are cheap and work great. They plug right into my Pioneer vsx521 receiver and my Paradigm Atom monitor speakers.
I wish they came with instructions, because it took me about 10 minutes to realize the bottom part unscrews in addition to the top part.
Here are my instructions for installation:
1) Unscrew the bottom part of this connector (the thin metal underneath the red/black ring).
2) Make sure the Banana Plug (which may be loosely screwed into the top part of the connector) is fully tightened down
3) Strip your wire tips to 3/8 of an inch (or just slightly under)
4) Run the first newly stripped wire end through the bottom part you removed in step 1, such that the stripped end of the wire is entering through the flat end and exiting through the smaller threaded end.
5) Leave about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of stripped wire hanging past the exit hole.
6) As evenly spaced as possible, bend the over-hanging wire strands over the exit hole (all around it, like a hat). If done properly, the wire should not fall out if you give it a VERY GENTLE tug.
7) Screw the top metal part (with the actual banana plug) back onto the bottom part. It may be difficult if your stripped wire is hanging too low. I've used a pair of pliers to grip the bottom part of the connector while I twist the banana plug side with my hand.
If done correctly, you should be able to put a lot of tension between the wire and connector without removing/damaging it.
UPDATE:
I just recently helped my dad install his 5.1 system without these... it sucked... This item (5 pairs of them in this case) and a good wire stripper can save you alot of pain (both physical and mental). The connectors on the back of his receiver are the kind where bare wire comes in from the side and then the connectors screw down (with a banana plug hole in the center which is where this product would come into play). I felt like a surgeon trying to get a bare wire end into the little slot, and then holding it there while I tighten the connector which is almost impossible since they are so close together...
GET THESE!
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Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2012