SKU: 70547528049

#Hollyland Spares Ear Headset connectors (Old Version)

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Description

#Hollyland Spares Ear Headset connectors (Old Version)When sourcing Hollyland spare headset connectors designated as the "Old Version," this generally refers to the hardwired, system specific LEMO or multi pin connectors used on legacy wired intercom systems and older beltpacks (such as the early generation Solidcom M1 or legacy Syscom grids). Unlike modern Solidcom C1 or C1 Pro systemswhich are entirely self contained wireless headsets with no external cablesolder generation setups rely on modular

When sourcing Hollyland spare headset connectors designated as the "Old Version," this generally refers to the hardwired, system-specific LEMO or multi-pin connectors used on legacy wired intercom systems and older beltpacks (such as the early-generation Solidcom M1 or legacy Syscom grids).

Unlike modern Solidcom C1 or C1 Pro systems—which are entirely self-contained wireless headsets with no external cables—older generation setups rely on modular cabling to bridge a beltpack to an ear-headset.

The Two Most Common "Old Version" Connector Configurations

1. The LEMO 8-Pin / 10-Pin Connector (Syscom & Solidcom M1)

If your old-version spare hardware features a circular, push-pull metallic latch, it utilizes a professional LEMO-style connector (often the 8-pin or 10-pin layout, depending on the model generation).

  • The "Old Version" Context: Early batches of the Solidcom M1 shipped with a specific pinout configuration on their LEMO headset lines. If you are replacing a single ear-headset or a broken cable link on an older base setup, you must verify the pin array count.

  • Locking Security: This heavy-duty structural connector cannot be pulled out by a simple tug; it requires pulling back the outer metallic sleeve to disengage the internal mechanical teeth.

2. The 4-Pin / 5-Pin XLR Connector (Legacy Beltpack Adapters)

Some early versions of Hollyland headset systems utilized standard broadcast-style mini-XLR or full-size XLR inputs rather than custom multi-pins.

  • The "Old Version" Context: Used primarily to adapt third-party single-ear production headsets (like Clear-Com or Telex hardware) into older Hollyland station lines.

Hardware Replacement Checklist

Before buying or replacing an old-version headset or cable stub, check these two critical details:

  1. Count the Inner Pins: Carefully peer into the female socket on the headset line or look at the male prongs on the connector head. They are tightly packed and usually number 4, 8, or 10 pins. Matching the physical pin count is essential for compatibility.

  2. Check the Part Number: Official Hollyland service channels log the generic replacement cable under code S-HOL-CAB-SOLM1 (or model-specific variants for the old Syscom lines).

Pin Cleaning Maintenance Tip: Because old-version multi-pin connectors have incredibly tight spatial clearances between pins, dirt, pocket lint, or moisture build-up inside the female socket can easily bridge two pins and cause an audio short-circuit (resulting in a loud pop, intermittent mic dropping, or complete silence). Use a blast of electronic contact cleaner or compressed air directly into the pin slots before determining that a vintage cable assembly has structurally failed.

Shipping Notes
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Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
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SKU: 70547528049

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Size: 42in, Color: 2-layer, Size: 42in, Color: 2-layer
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Reviewed in the United States on May 3, 2026
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★★★★★ 5
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Reviewed in the United States on May 3, 2026
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Los Angeles, US
★★★★★ 5
Very easy to put up and assemble!
Size: 48 inch 3 Tier, Size: 48 inch 3 Tier
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Tara U.
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★★★★★ 5
beautiful and sturdy
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Reviewed in the United States on February 25, 2026
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Nancy
Chelsea, US
★★★★★ 1
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I would not recommend this shelf. There are no instructions included - just a simple drawing of putting it together but nowhere says what drill bit size to use for the plastic anchors which are square on the end and not round. In addition, you cannot fully tighten the iron brackets or they won’t alight on the wall to hang the shelf. Each piece of metal piping has part of the black coating stripped off as well. And on top of that, the bottom of each shelf is unfinished and looks as though they used a filler to hide holes in the shelf. Not worth the money or the hassle.
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